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Bridal fever sears in Lahore pre-PLBW

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LAHORE: 

While the upcoming PFDC Bridal Week is one of the biggest platforms to rely on for future bridal trends and some wedding shopping, multi-brand store Ensemble held its own little bridal showcase in Lahore. Held on Wednesday, the one-day exhibition featured bridal collections from three Karachi-based designers Feeha Jamshed, Umar Sayeed and Delphi.

Though Jamshed is mostly known for her prêt wear including her famous janitor jumpsuits and flowy cotton tunics, her bridal collection is the one to watch out for. With an affordable price range, the designer put her creative skills to test and experimented with earthy tones, geometric patterns and traditional beadwork. The beadwork on one of her outfits was so intricate that it looked more like fine mukesh. Another outfit that stood out was the ‘Silver Bling’ with christmas tree motifs. The outfits are well-stitched, with some unusual kimono sleeves inspired by the Sindhi chogha. She has also become the latest designer to delve into digital prints, with some colourful digitally-printed silk saris on display. Overall, it was a fun collection and showed off Feeha’s talent and her transformation as a designer. Her outfits were priced between Rs100,000 to Rs320,000.

Umar Sayeed can easily be called a ‘bride magnet’ with his innovative and timeless designs. While his gorgeous outfits incorporate elaborate traditional work, they come at a hefty price and not everyone can afford them. When word got out that Sayeed is bringing an ‘affordable range of bridals’ we were very excited to see what it was. However, there were only two bridals on the rack. The collection mostly comprised luxury prêt wear including lightly-embroidered chiffon pieces and some bead work.  A jacket inspired by the basant festival with kites embroidered on it was a winner.

Delphi works primarily with crochet and had brought a collection of outfits based on its signature aesthetic. If one likes outfits made entirely out of crochet then Delphi would appeal to your taste. Sequined crochet with protruding rosettes comprised the entire collection. With a varying colour palate Delphi’s rack started off with white crocheted gowns moving into ivories and then a range of pastels.

Published in The Express Tribune, October 11th, 2013.

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PLBW day 1: Elegance and experiment

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LAHORE: 

The prestigious PFDC L’oreal Paris Bridal Week (PLBW) has begun. Held at the beautiful Faletti’s hotel, Day 1 saw diversity and freshness as designers set the ramp ablaze with traditional and contemporary bridal looks. While couturier Hassan Sheheryar Yasin is often the obvious choice for a grand finale, this time around he chose to open the week with a theatrical display. Apart from newbies like Deena Rahman and Sania Maskatiya, the platform also witnessed an exclusive hair trends show offering clients a complete bridal package.

Sania Maskatiya

Although Maskatiya has been designing bridal wear for a really long time, this was her first bridal showcase at PFDC Bridal Week. Sania Maskatiya was refreshingly experimental, and presented a collection that echoed sophistication and finesse. Staying true to her design aesthetic, her Tilism collection merged innovative prints with embellishment and each outfit seemed to be telling a different story altogether. The choice of fabric and embellishment was vast but the designer made it all come together in an appealing manner. Her outfits showed an array of intricate threadwork, zardozi, gota, kamdani and tilla and a variety of playful cuts. Sania too showcased cropped jackets and shorter hemlines. Embroidered capes and ponchos gave a new meaning to the dupatta and showed a variation in the ways it can be used.

Elan

Khadija Shah proved that she is one of the most consistent designers when it comes to creativity. Her Sultanate collection at the PFDC Bridal Week which drew inspiration from Eastern royalty, was mesmerising. Playing with hues of white with a tinge of bright pink and black here and there, the label presented an ethereal collection that left one wanting more. While the designer is known to extensively use diamantes to enhance her outfits, she bravely experimented with embroidery and incorporated it with flair. From mermaid shararas and sheer embellished jackets to jamdani shawls and belted saris, Elan’s was a delightful fusion of traditional and modern. Her vintage Mughal-inspired black cropped jacket paired with a sheer ash white shalwar kameez was definitely an interesting twist on the trending bridal wear.

HSY

What’s an HSY show without some drama? The couturier presented his collection titled My Muse – a tribute to three renowned Pakistani women that he has enjoyed styling and who have inspired him by their confidence and beauty. These included model-turned-entrepreneur Vaneeza, model Mehreen Syed and Lollywood queen Reema. The first segment opened by Vaneeza set the tone of traditional red and gold bridal ensembles, crafted intricately with classic gold pitta, marori and girra work. These outfits had a nawabi appeal; a cropped embellished sherwani paired with a heavily detailed lehenga was surely memorable. The second segment saw model Mehreen Syed walk down the ramp in a surreal gold and beige lehenga accentuated with colourful embroidery on the borders. From there on, HSY presented a range of subtle coral and peach outfits but while they were overwhelming in terms of styling and colour, the overall look was typical of his work and not out of the box.  The final segment saw an array of daring midnight blue ensembles with Reema as showstopper. The luminous collection including silver handwork and semi-precious stones was definitely the strongest. The menswear collection in this segment was simple and wearable with clean cuts compared to the other two. While this segment was the highlight of the entire lot, what really took the audience by surprise was Reema’s stumble, which she handled ever so gracefully.

Deena Rahman

HSY’s protégé Deena is a newbie and her lack of experience was evident. While she offered an array of sophisticated bridal wear in diverse colours – including saris – the underlying concept of the collection did not appear to be cohesive. She primarily played with tissue, net and pastel textures but also featured velvet and chiffons. Overall, the collection was feminine and echoed a muted elegance, but did not bring anything new to the table. It will take Deena some time to define her creative niche and mature as a designer. However, her pastel saris with pops of purple stood out.

Exist

Exist made its debut with a menswear line called The Masterpiece. Inspired by the James Bond 007 series that was defined by well-thought-out designs and craftsmanship, the collection utilised exquisite fabrics such as cashmere for suits, velvets for jackets and Egyptian cotton for shirts and handmade silk for ties. The line was edgy and perfect for the contemporary man. However, their collection of cropped pants paired with blazers and travelling bags seemed a little too familiar and had a very similar aesthetic to that of Republic. Nevertheless, the funky cravats gave an overall edge and sophistication.

Tony & Guy’s hair trends show

After a vibrant showcase of designer wear began L’Oréal Professionnel’s Hair Trend Show that displayed the “it looks” of fall/winter 2013-2014. It also showcased complementary capsule collections by Mohsin Ali, Sublime by Sara and Wardha Saleem. Depicted by stylist Shammal Qureshi, technical consultant for L’Oréal Professionnel, the Hair Trend Show was a well-rounded blend of great music, chic hairdos and trendy ensembles. The show entailed three major hair trends: Silver Blonde Chignon, Rose Gold Retro Waves and Icy Brown. Model Fauzia looked glamorous in the Jessica Chastain-inspired retro waves, and the above-the-shoulder icy brown bob was sported by model Amna Ilyas. The triad of hairdos that were presented was both stylistically and aesthetically appealing.

View our slideshow on PFDC Bridal Week here.

Published in The Express Tribune, October 12th, 2013.

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PLBW Day 2: Lost in Translation

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LAHORE: While PFDC L’oreal Paris Bridal Week Day 1 was a treat to watch in terms of the creative diversity offered by designers, Day 2 had a few hits but comparatively more misses.

With some seasoned designers, as well as some essentially prêt wear designers, showcasing their bridal collections, Day 2 clearly fell below the benchmark set at the beginning of the week. What stood out were the Gatsby — theme looks created by the incredible team at Tony & Guy and make-up artists Maram & Aabroo. The feminine demeanor of the models complemented the overall soft and dainty tone of the event.

Ali Xeeshan

Designer Ali Xeeshan is not just a talented designer but also a great showman — he knows exactly how to entertain the audience. His collection Jageer, unveiled amidst high-pitched classic music, was a reflection into the magnificence of a darbar and the outfits screamed royalty at its best. By offering an outfit for every ceremonial occasion, Ali Xeeshan proved that Bridal Week is just not a platform to flaunt your talents but an opportunity to showcase the breadth of your work. Combining simple cholis with exquisitely hand-worked lehengas, the designer offered a collection that resonated history and tradition with utmost finesse. While the structured sleeves and the kamdani effect added even more life to the fun collection, the intricate embroideries on ivory and black created a pleasing montage. But it would have been better if the designer had presented a lesser number of outfits to maintain the quality of his collection. Nevertheless, if not a wedding day favourite, Ali Xeeshan has definitely become a go-to designer for fun and vibrant mehndi outfits.

Nickie n Nina

Designer label Nickie n Nina has more than a decade of experience in both haute couture and prêt-a-porter. Their collection titled Garden Party was inspired from the pre World War I era and had an overtly Downtown Abbey feel to it. Using an array of fabrics including chiffons, nets and satins, the collection offered an interesting mix of asymmetrical cuts, crystal embellishments and cutwork and pastel hues. While the collection successfully reflected the basic concept, it wasn’t so aesthetically pleasing. One thing that was noticeable was the duo’s emphasis on separates like jackets, shawls and peplum tops. While some outfits appeared to be busy and overpowering and the styling lacked appeal, the design house did manage to capture the real essence of the era.

Fahad Hussayn

Fahad Hussayn’s Great Mutiny collection symbolised the romance and elegance of an aristocratic era. His cotton capsule collection was flawless and the rich threadwork added a regal touch to an otherwise casual fabric. Pearl and nauratan jewelery complemented the overall look. However, the head gears were completely bizarre. It was refreshing to see a designer return to traditional roots of men’s kurtas. The classic plain kurtas are timeless and Fahad brought an interesting twist by pairing them with printed patkas — something that can become a huge mehndi trend. Yet, it was disappointing to see what followed after the bar was set so high. The next few pieces of the collection were merely an overly-embellished bunch of mismatched outfits but, thankfully, they were covered up for by the exquisitely detailed finale outfits sported by Amna Ilyas and Mehreen Syed.

Misha Lakhani

The young and talented Misha Lakhani proved her mettle yet again with her Bohemian Heiress collection that combined 17th century and Ottoman traditions with modernism. Intricately detailed with gota, zardozi, marori and block-print, the collection offered a variety of cut-savvy separates fused together perfectly. Carrying on with her signature aesthetic, Misha brought a twist to her usual style with some lovely saris and a simple yet eye-pleasing colour palatte. Faded mint green over fuchsia really stood out. Polki-inspired motifs and tissue dupattas with gota work were just icing on the cake.

Sadaf Malaterre

Sadaf Malaterre’s debut collection at the PFDC Bridal Week was a picture perfect example of why some designers should only stick to prêt wear. Although inspired from nature and colours, the collection lacked the edginess of prêt wear and failed to meet the extravagance of bridal wear. In fact, it was a repetitive color blocked collection that did not bring anything exciting to the table, with some lehengas looking more like gypsy skirts. While the idea of crushed lehengas and chiffon saris infused with jamawar was interesting, the execution was not up to par and, although colourful and funky, the collection surely did not match bridal wear standards.

Sonia Azhar

Sonia Azhar’s take on Victoria’s Secret was more humorous than fashionable. The show opened with Cybil locked in a cage and once the angel wings came into the limelight, everything went downhill. Even though the wings and headgear were beautiful and well-thought out as a concept and the custom made earrings added some edge to the dramatised look, we really wish she had paid more attention to creating something new and different in her collection rather than focusing heavily on the styling. The sheer net and lace leggings looked very grody in general and not just in terms of bridal wear. Overall, her collection, titled Divine Unison, was bland and very common. She clearly needs to innovate and differentiate her product in order to showcase at such platforms.

Published in The Express Tribune, October 13th, 2013.

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PLBW day 3: Creative hits and misses

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LAHORE: 

PFDC L’Oréal Paris Bridal Week came to a spectacular finish and presented an all-rounded overview of the fashion dos this season, notwithstanding the handful of dull moments. With the House of Kamiar Rokni marking the finale, the day had a lot to offer. The event had a myriad of attractions but one of the amusing features was the appearance of Salman Khan’s look-alike during Nomi Ansari’s show.

Out of the multitude of trends showcased, some to look out for this fashion season would have to be cotton formals, double-textured saris and sheer nets draped over prints.

Nomi Ansari

When it comes to playing with colours, no one does a better job than Nomi. Sponsored by Bank Alfalah, Nomi’s show started off with model Nadia Hussain setting the runway on fire in a canopy skirt made out of the bank’s credit cards. Showcasing a wide array of colours, the collection looked fabulous and wearable. Nomi’s use of heavy embroidery and silk saris with chiffon pallu, which was a constant feature of the Bridal Week, were an instant hit. Male models sporting stylised Jinnah caps and a moustache added to the dramatic aura of the ensemble. The collection comprised of neon-colorued jamavar and kamkhab sherwanis, which enhanced the perky feel of the showcase. What stole the show, however, was the Bollywood performance by Salman Khan’s look-alike!

Sana Safinaz

The dynamic duo dazzled the audience with a take different from their usual one. They promised a completely revamped collection in the preview, and they delivered! The collection was consistent and certainly one of the best of the evening. Showcasing saris with churidars, cotton lehengas with velvet detailing and jumpsuits with embellished capes, Sana Safinaz rekindled their brand image. Very impressive indeed!

Zara Shahjahan

Zara debuted at the PFDC Bridal Week with her collection titled True Love, which reflected her aesthetic sense and love for floral hues and femininity. The most eye-catching of her pieces were the ones with embellished sheer net over printed silk lining. Zara’s collection epitomised her fresh and experimental approach to fashion design. I wish we could’ve seen more of that. Trendy, volumised lehengas with pockets were young and fun. While some of the outfits were too heavily embellished with diamantes, it was refreshing to see that Zara stepped out of her comfort zone and dared to diverge from fashion norms. Her midnight blue ensemble with gold work was certainly the highlight of the collection.

Asifa and Nabeel

Asifa and Nabeel certainly understand their design forte and work within the parameters of what they know best. Their designs are generally known for their style, detail and craftsmanship. However, the collection that they showcased was a mix of hits and misses. The outfit that stood out among the entire collection was a plain black shirt with a velvet-detailed back, maroon jamavar pants and a heavily embellished dupatta. While their red-coloured bridal wear was typical and lacklustre, Asifa and Nabeel’s use of earthy tones in their outfits stood out.

Sahar Atif

Although Sahar has been showcasing her work since years, her collection titled Saai lacked oomph and was not aesthetically pleasing. Some of the outfits were clearly Shehla Chatoor rip-offs and gave a gola ganda feel. Rainbow-coloured saris with jackets were a letdown. Chatappati is generally a tricky design and if used properly, can look beautiful. If not, disaster! Sahar’s usage of the design in lehengas didn’t fit the bill. Overall, the collection was neither pleasing to the eye nor cohesive.

The House of Kamiar Rokni

Giving an oriental touch to its creations, the design house showcase its best work. With some North African-inspired looks, the collection deviated from his usual work. While the outfits weren’t up to the mark stylistically speaking, the workmanship was the design house’s finest. The amount of thought put into the collection was evident. However, the heavily stylised sleeves and cropped jackets didn’t seem to wow the audience. They would have been better suited for a prêt collection, instead for a bridal one. The lime green and blue outfit worn by Neha was exceptionally exquisite. Staying true to what symbolises the Orient, The House of Kamiar Rokni aptly made use of vivid colours and motifs.

Published in The Express Tribune, October 14th, 2013.

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Dar Singh: ‘I feel more Pakistani than Indian now’

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LAHORE: 

UK-based Indian hairstylist Dar’s extensive list of loyal clients includes stars from Hollywood (Goldie Hawn, Pierce Brosnan) and Bollywood (Aishwarya Rai, Gurinder Chada, Salman Khan) as well as our very own ex-cricketer-turned-political leader Imran Khan.

Over the last two decades, Dar has successfully built a name for himself and has also worked with top photographers. His work has also been featured in magazines including Vogue, Cosmopolitan and Harper’s Bazaar.

On his recent visit to Lahore, he admits he has a soft corner for the city and its friendly people.

“I was working at Vidal Sassoon when Imran [Khan] and I became friends. He invited me to Pakistan and I was introduced to [socialite] Yousaf Salahuddin,” Dar says, recalling a time when Imran was playing for Sussex. He admits Lahore is one of his favourite places to visit and that he has stayed at Salahuddin’s haveli multiple times. “The people are so hospitable and welcoming that Lahore feels like home,” he says.

“I feel more Pakistani than Indian now, and to me, Lahore is the most beautiful city in the world because the old city still has its character,” the Malaysian-born Indian stylist admits.

Dar’s career started off as him being an assistant at Bruno & John — a salon that later shut down — and soon switched over to Vidal Sassoon and worked there for almost seven years. “Growing up, I knew I wanted to be involved in the fashion industry and I hated formal schooling,” he says. “During my stay at Vidal Sassoon, I met some of the most influential hairdressers of time.” He admits they taught him to treat hair like architecture. “You have to look out for the height of the woman, length of the neck, face cut, shape of the body and the social aspect of her life.”

The stylist feels the right haircut helps create the optimal look for a particular woman. Whether it’s a socialite or a secretary, all women require a certain attitude and finesse. “A good hair dresser will sculpt your hair, not cut it,” Dar continues. “The mark of a good haircut is not whether it looks good after a blow dry — it’s that you don’t need to style your hair everyday in order for it to look fantastic.”

From cut to colour, it’s all about creating the ‘complete look’ for Dar. “Even colouring your hair is very scientific. The colour should not only complement one’s skin tone, but should also sculpt the hairstyle,” he explains. It’s thus safe to say that Asian skin is not made for blonde streaks and ultra-light shades. So ladies, switch to a colour that will complement your skin tone and bring out your personality.

“I feel that each woman is beautiful and her beauty needs to be accentuated and not hidden,” Dar says. Whether it’s long hair or short hair, it needs to be cut in a manner that is flattering to the body and helps enhance it, he adds.

It’s Dar’s individual style which has won him acclaim in the hair dressing industry worldwide. “I have always been about creating looks for tomorrow (the future),” he says. The stylist has travelled with Wella, Red Ken, L’Oréal and KMS, conducting seminars all over Europe.

For the next week, Dar will be available for appointments at Arammish Spa and Salon, offering his services for a subsidised rate of Rs12,000.

Published in The Express Tribune, October 25th, 2013.

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Are we ready for psychotherapy?

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LAHORE: 

Going to a therapist regularly is a good practice that keeps your mind healthy and focused. However, societal pressures work against therapy in Pakistan, as older generations have this complex that asking for a therapist’s help is a defeatist attitude.

Trying to break the norms of the society, three young therapists talked to The Express Tribune regarding problems they face. But let’s first understand the difference between a psychologist and a therapist. While a psychologist is a clinical practitioner, a therapist is a counsellor and helps working through your problems verbally and if need be, refers clients to a psychologist.

“While therapy is a taboo to a certain extent, people are more willing to send their children for counselling in order to help them overcome everyday problems,” says child therapist Natasha Wali, who is a fresh graduate from Columbia University and has a Masters degree in Counselling.

Wali says a therapist has to avoid using words like dyslexia or ADHD (attention deficit hyperactivity disorder) in front of parents because they start worrying about their children. She believes anxiety and depression can alter a child’s performance in school. “Teachers here [in Pakistan] tend to marginalise children by calling them names and that is detrimental to the mental growth of a child. One has to be very delicate with the terms used because it is very sensitive.”

The therapist raises her concern about quacks and under-qualified therapists who are offering their services. “Therapy is such a sensitive area that one bad experience can drive people away from it,” she says.

Another therapist, Jasmyn Rana seconds Wali’s belief and admits that there are under-qualified people practicing the profession. Rana, who is a Masters in Counselling from Monash University, Melbourne, currently works at Therapy Works in Lahore. “There are only a handful qualified counsellors in town,” says Rana.

Rana feels that there is a growing change in the attitude towards therapy. “All precautions are taken when it comes to assuring confidentiality of the client,” she says, adding that there are even different waiting rooms for different therapists so clients don’t know who else is coming to the clinic.

Rana reveals the most common problem which clients come with are the issues they face with their in-laws. “Women are more inclined to send their children rather than coming themselves [for therapy],” shares Rana. “It takes a while for them to open up and talk about their problems. The first session is the hardest.”

Marriage counselling is almost unheard of in Pakistan. The patriarchal society we live in does not believe in asking for help, says Maryam Sohail, who is a marriage and family counsellor at Therapy Works. Sohail, who is a graduate from Northwestern University, has been practising in Pakistan for the last two years. “Even though most clients are willing to come to therapy, it is a luxury that very few people can afford,” begins Sohail. She says that people do not consider therapy until they reach a critical stage.

She adds that issues such as a woman earning more than her husband and a man lead to passive aggressiveness which take a toll on the relationship. “You will be surprised at how many sexual complaints we get in these sessions and many of them come to therapy looking for solutions.” However, she adds the downside is that the client tends to place a lot of authority in the therapist which becomes uncomfortable.

Published in The Express Tribune, November 1st, 2013.

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With My Art World, Pakistani art is only a click away

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LAHORE: 

Be it fashion or fast food, having an online presence is essential for a business to thrive today. With the Google Art Project, for instance, the importance of e-commerce was reinforced. It revolutionalised the way the world looked at art online. High resolution images, three-dimensional gallery effects and immaculate zoom-in features, really changed the way art is viewed from the comfort of one’s own house.

Pakistan is also catching up, with most existing art galleries boasting online components. However, there still isn’t a standalone professional online art gallery that connects local artists to the globe. Zainab Omar, a passionate art collector and an entrepreneur, was quick to realise this dearth in the market and has launched a purely online art gallery — Myartworld.org. The website, which is already active and running, will feature over 100 artists from around the country.

“I have been an art lover and collector for a while,” says Omar, “And I want to give Pakistani talent an opportunity to showcase their work on a more global level.” Omar, who was brought up in London and moved to Pakistan in 1989, feels that Pakistanis living abroad frequently visit Pakistan to meet friends and family but they hardly get time to have a look at art galleries and their archives. My Art World aims to cater this particular market along with the international art circuit.

Omar confesses that it was her son Adil Omar’s success as a musician that made her realise the significance of e-business. “Over the years, I saw my son’s career take off. From being just a musician in his room, he turned into an artist with an international fan following,” says Omar proudly. “Also, there was this one time that I really liked Komail Aijazuddin’s work. I wanted to buy it immediately and I was able to online.”

This particular encounter made her wonder that if she was willing to buy online, there may be others waiting for a similar opportunity, too. “When people visit our country, they are only able to view seasonal collections at art galleries. [But] this new portal will offer an artist’s portfolio, allowing the viewer to get familiar with the artist’s style and mood,” she emphasises.

NCA graduate Zara Sajid will be working as the curator for the online gallery. “It will be a very different kind of gallery,” asserts Sajid. Apart from having online shows, any show that they curate physically will be uploaded in a 3D version so that the viewers can get the exact same experience as they would for real. “The website will recreate virtual gallery spaces whereby the viewer can go to different rooms to view different collections, change the angle from which they view it and also have an enhancing zoom-in feature,” says Sajid.

In order to tap into the niche Pakistani market abroad, the online gallery will have representatives at All Pakistan Women’s Association (APWA) and The Citizens Foundation events and Association of Physicians of Pakistani Descent of North America (APPNA) conferences.

While contemporary Pakistani art will be the website’s forte, there is a special collectables’ page that will allow clients to view and buy antiques, manuscripts, paintings and old contracts that private collectors are willing sell. “This will be a great opportunity for those who want to invest in Sadequain’s or Iqbal Mehdi’s jewels, amulets, carpets and items that have a high value,” says Omar. “The main issue is of the authenticity of these items and, for that purpose, we will be providing certificates,” she adds.

Published in The Express Tribune, November 11th, 2013.

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Ortho-K: A night cap for your eyes?

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LAHORE: 

Modern medicine has advanced leaps and bounds, with new technology and various non-invasive procedures available to cure diseases. The internet has made the common man more aware of what is going on in every industry around the world, but there is a fine line between helpful solutions and gimmicks. Whilst one can probably find a solution to most problems, one must be aware of gimmicks and hoax products.

In recent history, a corrective eye sight lens has been introduced in the market, by the name of Ortho-K. The Express Tribune talks to their sales manager Susan Yang about the technology at their outlet in Y block Market Lahore. “This lens is an alternative to Lasik or laser surgery,” begins Yang, “It is designed for night time use, and basically massages the cornea and redistributes the cells in order to make the cornea flatter.”

Yang proposes that with the use of this lens while sleeping, the patient will be able to gain an eye sight of 20/20 throughout the day. This would successfully aid in conducting a normal life without glasses or other supportive lenses to combat Myopia (commonly known as short sightedness).

“You avoid surgery, and in the same amount of money you get a non-invasive temporary cure for Myopia,” continues Yang. While it is a well-documented fact that ophthalmologists condemn the usage of contact lens overnight, Ortho-K is specifically designed only for night time wear. Ortho-K provides temporary relief, and Susan Yang proposes that it’s well suited for children as they can get rid of glasses and enjoy life otherwise.

The introduction of Ortho-K makes one wonder about the fate of more common procedures, such as laser surgery. “Laser surgery is extremely profitable,” says Yang. “It’s a very easy procedure to do and the doctor is not liable for the consequences after the surgery takes place.”

However, according to doctors and some online reviews, Ortho-K can be harmful.

“This practice is a gimmick, and not an authentic form of treatment,” says Dr Nasir Chaudhry, a practicing ophthalmologist at Mayo Hospital. “As one grows older, myopia increases due to the increase in length of the eye ball, and so far science has not been able to find a solution to the problem.”

Dr Chaudhry urges people to understand that change in curvature of the cornea does not affect the condition, as the images are formed inside the eye and the cornea is merely a receptor.

“Laser is reasonably permanent, with a higher success rate of 75% to 80% that one will get rid of glasses and lenses for life, granted they are viable candidates for laser surgery,” continues Dr Chaudhry.

While all medicines have side effects, Ortho-K users are found to be diagnosed with corneal ulcers. “There are hundreds of recorded cases of severe infections, and ulcers that can lead to one losing their eye,” says Dr Chaudhry. “While the idea seems appealing and hassle-free, there is a reason ophthalmologists stress that patients not use lenses during the night, and Ortho-K is no different.”

The doctor further explains its detrimental effects on children. “Introducing lenses to children at such an early age is harmful to the eye, and once the cornea gets disturbed there can be no further correction.”

While Ortho-K claims to be a cost-effective solution, the lenses are priced at Rs60,000 and will need to be replaced every three years. Alternatively, Lasik/laser surgery can be done for between Rs30,000 to 50,000 and is a more permanent solution.

Published in The Express Tribune, November 12th, 2013.

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Natasha Saigol: From the salons to the skies

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LAHORE: 

Meet Natasha Saigol — she makes women look their best for a living and has a rather unconventional pastime on her days off. Hairdresser by profession, and a pilot on Sundays, Saigol opens up to The Express Tribune about her two passions.

Saigol started her career as an apprentice to Tariq Amin and trained as a hairdresser under his guidance. After working with Amin, Saigol sought further training to supplement her skill set, and in turn discovered Amna Raja’s professional training class. “Generally, people here are extremely sceptical about training other professionals, and that seems to be the problem,” reveals Saigol. “But Amna was very open to working with me and allowed me to pick her brains, which was the best decision I made.”

The unwillingness to impart one’s expertise to newcomers is not the only problem she feels plagues the professional beauty industry in Pakistan. She highlights a lack of proper training opportunities that can provide guidance to aspiring professionals in Pakistan’s make-up industry, and it appears that the situation may not be much better abroad. “Last year I went for the Rotary Foundation Cultural Exchange Group Study Exchange (GSE) to Indiana and Chicago,” shares Saigol, speaking about her experience at the vocational training programme, “and people were very excited to hear about the work in our industry. However, the places I visited, their training programmes disappointed me.” Saigol feels the vocational training she received was very basic and the professional courses lacked the finesse of craft and depth of knowledge required in this industry.

Her days as a novice are now behind her and she has progressed to opening up her own salon at her residence in GOR 1, Lahore. It is here that she is able to cater to her clients in a truly personalised environment. Salons around Lahore are generally extremely busy and the usual flurry of activity causes one to almost forget to relax. Saigol has been known for her exclusive services for almost a decade. She only takes on clients individually and spends time understanding their hair and the look they would like to achieve.

Such specialised, client-specific service has become a thing of the past. Every salon these days functions as a one-stop solution to a woman’s every need — from hair and make-up, to manicures and pedicures, they do it all. Taking what she felt was a necessary measure to keep up with this trend, Saigol has now launched make-up services at her salon, to complement her expert hair services.

“I’d been doing make-up for a while at Tariq Amin,” reveals Saigol. “It’s a bit of a handicap when you do not offer make-up, and in this day and age, every salon should be all-rounded.”

On her make-up aesthetic, Saigol feels winter brides tend to go for darker colours, hence the eye make-up should primarily be in smokey hues of gold, with berry-coloured lips.

“While I love fashion, and I can talk about styling, but that is not all I want to talk about,” says Saigol. What most people do not know about Saigol is that she earned her Private Pilot Licence in 2012. “I enrolled myself at the Lahore Flying Club and got my licence,” she says. “I fly for fun and, while I love fashion, I go to the flying club every Sunday and switch off.”

“My entire family is into flying,” reveals Saigol, “not commercially of course, but they all enjoy recreational flying and that’s where I get my interest from.”

Saigol started indulging in her unusual hobby at the Ultra Light Flying Club in Walton, Lahore, in 2003. She made sure to clock in her flying hours regularly for the next six years, becoming more and more intrigued by flying as she did. While she is in the air, Saigol feels not only liberated and free, but also a sense of contributing to the world. It appears that for this woman, it is just as important to enrich her personal life as it is to develop her professional one.

Published in The Express Tribune, November 20th, 2013.

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Fit for a Queen: Reama Malik channels a bygone era

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LAHORE: 

The right accessory can make an outfit, and an exquisite piece of statement jewellery can lend one a great deal of confidence. GOLD by Reama Malik was introduced back in 1987, with the aim to do just that. By blending traditional craftsmanship with contemporary designs, Malik has quickly made a name for herself as a bespoke jewellery designer in Lahore.

“Back in the ‘70s, jewellery used to be one-of-a-kind, because it was all hand-made,” says Malik. “However, during the ’80s and ’90s, electronic machines came into the picture and [the availability of] hand-made jewellery diminished.” Malik observed this trend in the industry, and decided to revive a dying art by providing custom hand-made jewellery to discerning customers.

“We work very differently,” reveals Malik. “Our local craftsmen are so talented they can produce anything. Most stores use casting machines now, but I find this technique to be more effective. It also keeps my work exclusive.”

The design process isn’t an easy one. After a mental visualisation of the piece, the naqshakar (craftsman) draws the design on a piece of paper, which is then traced onto a patra (flat sheet of gold). After that, a mould is made for the design. The raw piece is polished and buffed and sent to setters to be fitted with gem stones. Finally, the piece is lacquered. “Each single piece easily goes through six or seven professional hands before the end product is achieved. Therefore, the price is high,” says Malik.

Clients are often more than happy to pay the premium for something so unique and intricate, according to Malik. She shares that brides-to-be often have a certain design in mind, but don’t really have the expertise to have it recreated, and also fail to find something similar in the market at times. This is where Malik steps in. She designs jewellery from scratch, according to the client’s budget and aesthetical requirements.

Although Malik can work with a diverse spectrum of stones and metals, she feels that a traditional bride looks best in gold. Hence, she is striving to highlight it as the main statement accessory. “Gold will always be an investment, because the price increases overtime. However, in case of diamonds, you will always lose money,” she asserts.

Fitting in well with emerging trends, Malik specialises in polki. In fact, she is one rare few in Pakistan who produces polki accessories from scratch. “Mostly polki is imported from India and then set here,” says Malik. “But here we make our own polki.” Malik is also known for designing nauratan, gold coin and kundan jewellery with a modern twist.

Harmonising time-honoured Eastern sensibilities with Western aesthetics, her timeless designs were a highlight at The House of Kamiar Rokni’s bridal showcase at PFDC L’oreal Paris Bridal Week this year. As much as she loves to stay true to her roots, she is also well aware of forthcoming trends. “Internationally, yellow-gold is coming back, and this season you will definitely see more brides wearing gold,” she emphasises. It appears that bridal jewellery trends are taking a turn towards the traditional, leaving Malik perfectly primed to cater to the increasing demand.

Published in The Express Tribune, November 21st, 2013.

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Vitalee: The holistic approach

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LAHORE: 

Founded in Lahore by A J Khan, with headquarters in Orange County CA, Vitalee Inc uses a holistic approach towards addressing the health concerns of young and old alike, to ensure results are sustainable and measurable. Vitalee provides users with organic healthcare supplements, using only natural ingredients to boost immunity and prevent disease.

On the official launch of the company on November 22, The Express Tribune spoke with Dr Ajmal Khan to gain a deeper understanding of this latest advance in alternative medicine.

“Ingredients utilised in all Vitalee products have the highest ORAC antioxidant values,” says Dr Khan adding, “And the lowest Glycemic index to address the synthetic and genetically modified ingredients consumed in our daily lives, which leads to preventable disease and good health.”

Dr Khan explains the nature of nanotechnology. “Nanotechnology refers to creating micro particles of the active material one wish to coat with liposome.” Liposome can be used to deliver substances to the blood stream and cells more efficiently than normal. “Liposomal migrates and absorbs faster,” continues Dr Khan. “Large cosmetic lines use nanotechnology because it penetrates faster. Hence the products are expensive.”

Based in Z Block DHA, Vitalee offers alternative medicine options. “No one would claim that alternative medicine and care have all the answers [to our modern health concerns],” says Dr Mohammad Riaz, molecular biologist at Vitalee. “But with all the mainstream medicinal options celebrities can afford, the fact that they seek alternative healthcare says something about the value of alternative medicine and care for optimum health.”

The launch event also saw a performance by the Nahid Siddiqi Foundation. While Nahid Siddiqi delivered a lecture demonstration, her troupe put together a moving dance performance.

“A lecture performance is a short performance explaining what Kathak is,” says Nahid Siddiqi. “It is an informative performance comprising of the traditional composition and repertoire of Kathak.” Even though it is visually pleasing, a lecture demonstration is not a conceptual piece. “It is performed in teen taal, a time cycle of 16 beats called kaushik dhwani while the melodic cycle or lehra is in raag,” continues Siddiqi.

Along with Nahid Siddiqi, her troupe members Rehan Bashir, Rachel Waterman, Mehreen Jillani and Ayesha Sarfaraz performed an improvisational piece. “We want to promote the classical arts that are now dying and are not being preserved in their original form,” says Rehan Bashir. “With the help of Vitalee we are able to promote the arts better.” The holistic centre has housed the foundation for almost 2 years.

Published in The Express Tribune, November 24th, 2013.

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KRK Home: Remnants of an affluent era

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LAHORE: 

Artwork and antiques are always well-appreciated among the affluent. No matter which century the pieces are from, people tend to value items from an era bygone. Khadija Rabbani Khar of KRK Home talked to The Express Tribune about her exhibition of antique French furniture.

“I generally like modern furniture and that is the kind of work I like doing for my label,” said Khar, as she talked about Ralph Lauren being her main inspiration. “However, I think there is a niche market for antiques collection in Lahore and people are always looking for something different for their houses.”

Most furniture design houses have a signature look that permeates through their collection, so one can almost tell who has done the interiors at a first glance. In order to break the pattern, it is always aesthetically pleasing to have a statement piece that brings character to the room. KRK Home brings 20th century French craftsmanship into Lahore’s modern drawing rooms. This limited collection has pieces from the early 1900s, including period chairs, settees, consoles and mirrors, all incorporating opulent baroque trimmings and embellishments that are quintessentially French Victorian and bring to mind Louis XV’s antique furniture.

“One of my sisters is based in London, and, upon her visit to Paris, she discovered this niche,” said Khar. “It took multiple trips to Paris to collect everything I wanted to exhibit and then have it shipped off to Lahore.” She stresses that none of the pieces has been lacquered, polished or fixed, in order to maintain their authenticity. “I want to keep them in their original condition so feel people can enjoy the uniqueness of them.” Khar advised that it is only wood that needs to be waxed. “The trick with antiques is the way one preserves them. You shouldn’t take it backwards or forwards.”

During her visit to Paris, Khar stumbled upon an Italian Villa, where she picked up carved chairs and small side tables. “The history of these carved chairs is fascinating,” continues Khar. “The faces you see carved onto the chairs actually belong to the owners of the villa, it was customary back then that each person sat on a chair with their face carved in it.”

The pieces overall are opulent and exude a bygone affluence. Priced between Rs70,000 and Rs450,000, this two-day exhibit took place on November 23 and 24 2013 in Lahore Cantt.

Published in The Express Tribune, November 26th, 2013.

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YOC’A X HSY: An ode to Jinnah: Get ready for fashionable furniture

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LAHORE: 

The love for our country has always been a unifying factor for people from all walks of life; be it the Yeh Hum Naheen campaign against terrorism or the Vibrant Pakistan fashion showcase at the Amsterdam Fashion Week. Now, for the first time, Pakistan will witness a rather unique collaboration that promises an accurate representation of Pakistan’s history. Couturier Hassan Sheheryar Yasin (HSY) and home décor experts, Sarah Najmi Bilgrami, Ahsan Najmi and Zayd Bilgrami, at YOC’A have joined hands to present a collection that, in all its intricacy, speaks volumes about the life of our nation’s founder Mohammad Ali Jinnah.

The Express Tribune sat down with the team at YOC’A and HSY himself for an exclusive tete-a-tete. “I have always wanted to do furniture but I never knew how to do it since my expertise lies in constructing clothes, not crafting furniture,” says HSY. “But when I was introduced to YOC’A, our visions were so in sync that we knew this collaboration had to happen.”

The exclusive limited edition collection is titled Unity Faith Discipline – A Retrospect, and comprises 48 pieces channelling the romance of Jinnah’s era. “It has a throwback feel to it and is entrenched in Pakistani history,” emphasises Bilgrami. “We have used old maps of Pakistani railway lines and postcards which Jinnah himself wrote, and emblazoned them on coffee tables and cushions.”

While the team at YOC’A is focusing on furniture design, HSY contributes his expertise in creative aesthetics through intricate embroideries and embellishments. Furniture enthusiasts can expect a veritable design museum of vintage furniture and home accessories reflecting the culture of the post-partition era. For the collection, YOC’A and HSY have created pieces of furniture for four different living spaces, with the aim of taking people down memory lane. One can say that this collaboration is a tale of two cities, combining the glamour of Lahore with the cosmopolitan nature of Karachi.

“It’s a ‘passion project’, not a fashion project,” says HSY. “These pieces are timeless and comfortable. They exude a very slick vibe and aren’t like your typical aunty furniture.” The design house has used thread embroideries on leather to give the pieces a unique feel. “We developed special motifs for this collection,” adds HSY.

The couture designer shares that it has been quite difficult for him to keep the exciting project under wraps for over a year. “I cannot keep anything to myself, but this was very important to me and it was something we wanted to be the first to do.”

The collection will be exhibited through an interior exhibition-installation from December 15 till December 17 at the HSY Studio in Lahore. Following that, it will be available for preview and order in Karachi later in the month.

Published in The Express Tribune, November 28th, 2013.

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Pantene Bridal Couture Week: Fashion or Finance?

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LAHORE: 

Each year, Pantene Bridal Couture Week (PBCW) generates serious cash flow for HUM TV, but fails to achieve any critical acclaim. Being associated with a TV channel gives this extravagant affair some major pull as far as sponsors are concerned. Since it is a televised event, sponsors are given a significant amount of air time, allowing for the budget of the show to be far more excessive than that of any other event of this sort.

With over-the-top ramp backdrops that change day-after-day, PBCW usually has a daily theme celebrating every event of the Pakistani wedding. With performances pertaining to the particular mood of the event, PBCW is more about entertainment than it is about the business of fashion.

The truth

Here is why PBCW cannot be compared to any other platform, and cannot be defined primarily as a fashion event. Bridal fashion across the world is a personalised affair, as it caters to a specific need that is not contingent upon what the market dictates. While with the PFDC L’Oréal Bridal Week one sees creativity and innovation, the calibre of most designers showing at PBCW fail to meet the latter’s standards. This holds true in most cases, with the exception of a few seasoned artisans who mix and match their earlier collections from PFDC L’Oréal Bridal Week, in order to create a variation in the looks they have already shown for the bride of the season.

While PBCW is very popular, it has become increasingly commercial over the years. PHOTOS: SHAFIQ MALIK/EXPRESS

One of the major components of any fashion week is the presence of buyers, both local and international. While bridal fashion is very specialized, PBCW fails to attract any major buyers from across Pakistan. The rare bride looking for a bridal jora can be spotted at the venue, but other than that crowd control is fairly minimal, with guests of sponsors and designers in attendance.

This year, the concept of the ramp was also extremely confusing; with traditional outfits being showcased on an Italian themed runway. One can also spot differences in lighting options used. While at Fashion Week, the focus of the lighting is around the ramp in order to illuminate the outfits and highlight the cuts, PBCW’s focus is on televising the event, which accounts for a constant warm light bathing the entire ramp area, so that the event can be clearly captured on camera and be fit for screening on television.

Make no mistake about it; the entertainment value of this event is unmistakeable. It captures the interest of the masses with performances and song choices that will not only be appreciated by the public, but will also present an eventful show that can be aired multiple times. Over the top embellishments may blind the audience at the venue, but once they are translated on-screen they become slightly subdued. It is clear that the outfits are made in a manner to look more appealing on TV than they do on the ramp. The commercial nature of the event also dictates the choice of music used.

Needless to say, what is always fun to see at PBCW are the showstoppers used for the shows. With the budget to hire established celebrities, one can spot actors, musicians and media personalities walking the ramp. This year, too, we saw actors Resham, Kiran Chaudhry, Maram and Aabroo, Iman Ali, Shiraz Uppal, Mehreen Raheel and singer/comedian Ali Butt walk the ramp adorned in clothes by different designers.

Overall, while the event does well financially and adds to the entertainment value of HUM TV, it cannot be considered a couture showcase.

Published in The Express Tribune, December 5th, 2013.

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Élan Polo Cup: Where fashion and sports collide

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LAHORE: 

As much as the ‘Mughal City of Gardens’ is loved for its glorious heritage, colourful culture and mouth-watering food, it is also well-known for its thrilling polo season.  The Élan Polo cup, held this weekend, was marked by thrilling sporting prowess, great food, music and a glittering array of posh socialites clad in fabulous outfits. 

Despite being a fashion house, Élan has actively supported and encouraged sporting activities. Earlier this year, it sponsored biker Moin Khan for his daring escapade – travelling from the US to Pakistan via road. It also promoted two American bikers on a trip around Northern Pakistan, to discover and disseminate a positive image of the beauty and heritage of Pakistan.

It is the second time that Élan organised this polo tournament, which ended in an exciting match between Team Newage and Team Fresher Juices/Sherwood – the former standing victorious with a score of six to five. Shah Shamyl Alam from Newage was awarded the Man of the Match title and Taimur Hayat Noon received the tournament’s trophy from chief guest Dr Salman Shah.

“This is the second Polo Cup that we have been associated with and we are pleased with the response it has been receiving from both the polo community and fans of the game,” says Khadijah Shah, the Creative Head of Élan. “We feel there is a strong fit between our brand and polo; both are synonymous with luxury, exclusivity and royalty. This sport, still appreciated as the Game of Kings in modern times, inspires us given our craftsmanship as an art form donned by royalty.”

Team Newage consisted of Shah Shamyl Alam (4 goal handicap), Abdul Rehman Monnoo (2 goal handicap), Adnan Jalil Azam (1 goal handicap) and Taimur Hayat Noon (-1 goal handicap). Team Fresher Juices/Sherwood  was captained by seasoned campaigner Shah Qublai Alam (4 goal handicap) alongside players Ahmed Zubair Butt (2 goal handicap), Mian Shahzad Aziz (1 goal handicap) and Shah Chengaiz Alam (-1 goal handicap).

The Élan Polo Cup is a medium goal tournament which was introduced last year with five teams and only a single four-goal handicap player in the competition. The current tournament, however, featured 10 teams and a total of five players with a four-goal handicap, which is clearly indicative of its quick progress.

“We look forward to building upon the success of Élan Polo Cup and believe that this endeavour will take the sport to its rightful position as the most prestigious sport in the country,” adds Shah.

Published in The Express Tribune, December 10th, 2013.

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Shamaeel Ansari goes Turkish with new collection

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LAHORE: After Turkish dramas, which have been in the ascendant on Pakistani television, Turkish designs are making their way into the Pakistani fashion industry. At her recent exhibition in Lahore, designer Shamaeel Ansari launched a ready-to-wear retail line called the Tughra Range. ‘Tughra’ is a calligraphic seal of an Ottoman sultan that was stamped on official documents and coins.

With a focus on drapery and digital prints on chamois silk, embellished with resham ka dhaaga and fine tassels, the collection is wearable and caters for various age groups. “I’m not catering for any specific audience; younger girls can wear these outfits and older women can also carry them off — it’s just about wearing them with the right attitude,” says Ansari.

The line comprises of kaftans, ponchos and wraps that epitomise Ansari’s signature style of offering luxurious yet not over-the-top designs. “This is a fun collection that is easy on the pocket and can be worn to formal occasions, which are not primarily weddings,” the designer says. “The clothes are all free size and since they are cut-based, they drape well on all body types,” she adds. Having a penchant for vintage designs, Ansari draws inspiration from the 15th century and explores the colour palette and motifs prevalent in that era.

She says that although the collection is exclusive and that she will not be taking orders, there will be a new collection every month, which will be distributed to all the major retailers across the country. Since the collection has single pieces, they can be styled differently. Ansari also exhibited accessories such as scarves and lowers that could jazz up any look.

The collection is priced between Rs25,000 and Rs30,000.

Published in The Express Tribune, December 11th, 2013.

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Forgetting a Friend by Komail Aijazuddin

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LAHORE: The Taseer Art Gallery opened its doors for the very first time to Komail Aijazuddin on December 12, 2013. Aijazuddin’s collection, titled Forgetting a Friend, is an extension of his earlier works. Previously, the artist has combined Christian religious iconography, traditionally replete with figures, pathos and dramatic body language, with that of Islam in an effort to create a new model for what he regards as personal votive art. Empowerment, intensity and power are all underlying themes in his work, which are sure to grip the viewer.

“My process has since expanded to include Hindu and Buddhist iconography,” says Aijazuddin, “canons of art that used to be part of our shared visual history; we have now obliterated from our collective consciousness out of a misplaced search for identity.”

The collection comprises of twelve new works. Each individual piece is gripping and allows the viewer to get lost in its world. What captures one’s eye the most is Aijazuddin’s rendition of Klimt’s famous Kiss. Against a yellow backdrop the artist creates passion, romance and a sense of longing in his piece. Aijazuddin’s work is all about playing around with different symbols and merging them together to create his own language. It is interesting to note that, throughout his collection, there is a sense of mixed emotions in his characters. There is a conflict and a harmony in every piece. While the subjects look content, there is a flicker of longing lingers across their expressions.

It is the mark of a good artist when he can draw the viewer in on the expressions painted in his work. “Images like Material Girl and Ganesh, both based on Hindu deities are easier to place,” continues Aijazuddin, “but the fact that Ganesh is against a halo of geometric patterns struck me, because as a combination it was both theologically illogical and seamless.” In an effort to reclaim the Gandharan past, the artist limits his colour palates to hues of blue that can be found in the Gandharan stone. “I wanted to combine not only the image of Buddha with different traditions of ornamentation, but in the case of Greek Buddha, I tried to see for myself the rampant Greek influence on Gandharan art from Pakistan.”

Aijazuddin’s work sells for between PKR 80,000 – 425,000.

Published in The Express Tribune, December 18th, 2013.

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Smells like a perfume launch

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LAHORE: It seems that launching fragrances has become the latest vogue. With many international fashion houses and celebrities jumping on the fragrance launch bandwagon, it was inevitable that the trend would transcend borders and permeate into the local fashion scene. And the first to catch the wave are designer brothers Nabeel and Aqeel Iftikhar. Going by the label Nabeel & Aqeel, the two have launched their signature perfume line for both him and her.

Although France is the hub of fragrance manufacturing,  and most designers and celebrities seeking to make perfumes go to perfumeries in the country for desired scents, the Iftikhar brothers took a different direction. In order to make affordable and quality products, the duo went to Spain to get their perfumes manufactured. “Our signature fragrances are inspired by glamorous, age-old perfumeries, where exquisite ingredients are used to create one-of-kind scents of sophistication and luxury,” says Nabeel.

Nabeel & Aqeel fragrances comprise five Eau de toilettes – four for men and one for women. “It took us six years to conceptualise this range and bring it to the market,” shares Nabeel. “The reason why we opted for Eau de toilette rather than Eau de parfum is that the latter are generally stronger and much more expensive; the former easily last for about four to six hours and are not very strong,” he further says. Nabeel & Aqeel acknowledges the personal significance of perfumes, and that the mark of a good perfume is how long it lasts.

The brothers explain how working with perfumes is a risky business: “There is a lot of financial investment required and we are talking big numbers,” says Nabeel.

Without revealing the name of the perfumery, Nabeel & Aqeel share with us that their product line is launched at an introductory price of Rs2,600 per bottle.

The collection features the following five perfumes:

1. Phantom: A strong, woody fragrance with notes of citrus that might not be everyone’s taste. Top notes of the perfume are orange, shiso, grapefruit and pepper, while heart notes include flint, mineral and geranium leaves. The base notes are those of oak, moss, vetiver, patchouli and benzoin.

2. Prestige: A fruity, sweet scent for men with the main accords of leather. The top notes of the perfume comprise blackcurrant, bergamot, apple and pineapple.

3. Inception: A manly, butch scent with notes, which are woody, citrusy, musky and spicy. The top notes include petitgrain, cardamom, lemon, orange and fir.

4. Monarch: As the name suggests, this is a fragrance of power and pleasure. An intense interpretation of sensuality. The main accords comprise citrus and marine and are fruity, aromatic and salty, with top notes of bergamot, green mandarin and lemon.

5. Rafia: The only scent for women, the fragrance has been named after the designer’s mother. This scent is a mixture of floral and fruity notes, with top notes of watermelon, mandarin, pink passion fruit, green leaves, water hyacinth and marigold flowers.

Published in The Express Tribune, December 21st, 2013.

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Fashion Firsts of 2013

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KARACHI / LAHORE: 

The year 2013 was absolutely fashion-tastic! With experimental ideas and showcases transcending borders, designers stepped away from the banalities of fashion and explored their options like never before. To give you a rundown of the industry’s big moments, we have compiled for you a list of 2013’s fashion milestones. So, sit back and bask in the reflected glory of our fashion frontrunners.

Nabeel & Aqeel perfume collection

The designer duo Nabeel and Aqeel Iftikhar launched five new scents under their label. The scents named Rafia, Monarch, Phantom, Prestige and Inception are now available in the market.

Judith Leiber bags in Pakistan

Bringing Judith Leiber bags to Karachi for the first time was Ruquiya Khan, a stockist from Los Angeles. 40 of the designer luxury handbags were exhibited by Khan at Labels this year.

Sublime by Sara Shahid launches Sublime Sparkles for children

Twinkling for the little stars, the collection was a first of its kind and a raving success. Designer Sara Shahid used pure cottons and chiffons to create a line of casual and party wear for children. Staying true to her design ethos, she used simple cuts and floral designs. There is a dearth of good children’s wear and pre-teen wear in the market, and Sublime Sparkles took a remarkable step to fill the void.

Maria B Linen

Maria B’s designer linen hit the market this year. From hues of grey to tones of coffee, the collection had a variety of winter hues. Ms B says that she can see “a lot many designers jumping on the bandwagon of designer linen by next year.” Although the collection received mixed reviews, it was a sure-fire way to cater to the often forgotten winter market.

Nida Azwer experiments with Shahtoosh

Shahtoosh shawls have always been somewhat of a collector’s item in Pakistan. Since they are hard to make and acquire, the value and worth of Shahtoosh shawls are  much higher than most others. Seeing the gap in the market, designer Nida Azwer debuted her Toosh Collection in Lahore. “I love collecting shawls, and while the sellers here have beautiful shawls, they are not one-off pieces,” says Azwer. With the intent to make something this valuable readily available, Azwer introduced hand-embroidered Shahtoosh shawls.

Sania Maskatiya’s Sapphire lawn

Designer Sania Maskatiya made a debut in lawn this year. Launching her collection in March, she stated that she has stepped foot in the “lawn market at the right time.” Maskatiya remained true to her signature style and colour palette. With animal prints and a standout design named ‘Mohenjodaro’, the collection was a great addition to the lawn market and the closets of fashionistas around the country.

Vibrant Pakistan in Amsterdam

For the first time, five Pakistani designers and retailer Leisure Club showcased their collections at Amsterdam Fashion Week 2013. Fashion design heavyweights Faiza Samee, Adnan Pardesy, Sonya Batla, Durreshawar Nisar and Honey Waqar displayed their collections in Amsterdam during the Vibrant Pakistan segment.

Élan Sport

Élan has consistently supported sporting ventures and for the first time, the brand’s creative head Khadijah Shah introduced Project Pakistan — a special sportswear line designed for biker Moin Khan. Khan, along with two international biking enthusiasts Michael Phillip Stewart and Kyle James Haggmark,  set out on a biking adventure across northern Pakistan. The project aimed at projecting a softer image of Pakistan to foreign audiences.

Mahin Hussain’s debut in bridal designer clutches

With a clutch collection named ‘An Ode to A Bride’, designer Mahin Hussain won many hearts this year. Specifically meant for the 2013 bridal season, the line comprised eight jamawar and velvet clutches with qora dabka embroidery.

Published in The Express Tribune, December 28th, 2013.

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The best of food 2013

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KARACHI / LAHORE: 

2013 literally ‘whizzed’ by. But not before making it the ‘Year of Cuisine’ with new eating houses dotting the Karachi landscape like never before — lots of them, along with some of them to keep your eye on.

It also became the year when restaurants and patrons became highly engaged via various food groups — where the owners counted on consumers to make this success viral. When compiling the list, the criteria was to look for original, extraordinary places that people will relish, places you’ll want to tell your circles about. The variety has more intensity than ever before; great Turkish food at Solen Istanbul in Dolmen Mall, wonderful seared excellence at Rowtisserie, knockout Asian cuisine at The Noodle House, and a completely avant-garde take on Iranian fare at Khanji in Port Grand. 2013 was rife with modernisation, with scallops in orange ginger sauce and snow balls at Sam’s Place to caterpillar maki from Oishi Sushi.

Sam’s Place

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The very posh Sam’s Place has made the list simply because the cuisine is uber-gourmet here. The setting is done in beautiful earthy tones with a splash of colour here and there. The dishes come to you in the form of ultra-fresh ingredients bursting with flavour. It seems effortless, but one order of Insalata Caprese proves it’s not. Their Asparagus with Sauce Noisette, Lamb Shanks with Red Wine Sauce, Chicken Paillards with Honey Mustard Sauce and Stewed Apricots make you fall in love. It is a must visit for special occasions like birthdays and anniversaries when you don’t mind spending around Rs2,000 per head.

Rowtisserie

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It’s his precision and detail that has made Kamil Aziz Khan one of the city’s most talked-about entrepreneurs. In 2013, he brought forward his prowess in the form of Rowtisserie. It is a small, charming space which boasts of minimalist nautical décor and his own take on family favorites—including rotisserie and flame grilled chicken with some exceptional sauces and sides such as new potatoes with dill, mash & gravy and corn. For starters, there is a Mezze platter and delicious wings. The delectable chicken is available in quarter, half or a full portion, perfect for sharing.

Khanji

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There was no hype around the opening of Khanji. In fact, I discovered the place on my recent visit to Port Grand. It is a casual place along the waterfront adorned with traditional truck art with a patio. The food, I would say, is ambitious for a regular Karachiite who loves spice. They have taken a chance (and succeeded) with dishes like Chelow Kabab and Mutton Karhai. It’s not jam-packed like Ghaffar Kebab House but will give you wonderful memories of the food will outlast those of Kebab Subhani. Khanji is slowly and steadily proving how Peshawari/Iranian cuisine will sustain its eminence in the years to come.

The Noodle House at DMC

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The Noodle House has become a bustling restaurant at Dolmen Mall simply because it offers the best East Asian cuisine in Pakistan. The Wasabi Prawns on the menu are delicious! The fiery Wasabi mellows alongside creamy mayonnaise and the prawns have a pleasing crunch to them. The Curry Laksa is rich, slightly sweet with strongly spiced coconut gravy. There are generous pieces of chicken and prawns with bean sprouts and eggs. You will love the crushed chilies and peanuts that add another dimension to this classic Malaysian dish. The rest of the fare is also exquisite, so next time you are out shopping, make sure to drop by the restaurant to try well-executed, top quality dishes, offering traditional flavours with a fusion twist. Prices on the menu can be staggering, but there are plenty of items that are more affordable and indeed justified by the quality of the food.

Pantry

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This restaurant is all about inventive dishes — made to impress. The inspirations are deeply personal and thus undoubtedly of the owner, Mohammad Ali Teli, and that makes them exciting. It will come as a surprise but Pantry has generous portions of comfort food like Baked Brie, Chicken and Waffles, and Macaroni and Cheese. You’d best turn up ravenous: the Burrito Bowl is huge. Expect some classic salads and delicious entrees on the menu. Big portions shouldn’t irk you from clinching the meal off with a wicked Chocolate Tart. While the food is ample, the décor is sublime.

Mrs Fields

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Mrs Fields/TCBY recently became a go-to cranny for my sweet tooth. There’s more than just cookies here — on offer are delectable flavors of scoops, soft serve, floats, sundaes, and splits. Their best selling item, frozen yogurt, is velvety in texture and churned on a daily basis for eager patrons. The most recommended dish on the menu is hand-scooped strawberries & cream froyo with homemade brownie. If your craving requires backing by a kick of caffeine, brilliant coffee and tea is also sold at the outlet.

Hafiz Sweets & Bakers

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Overtly situated near Indus Foods in Khadda Market, Hafiz Sweets & Bakers recently opened an outlet this side of the bridge. They need no introduction as many of us are probably already aware that they have been making sweets since 1950. Hafiz encompasses a takeout counter with an extensive menu of desi sweets, tarts, cakes and other baked goods. It’s tastefully designed and color-coordinated as one imagines a sweet shop to be. The place is affordable compared with its neighbours and especially so, considering the unbelievably high quality. As beseems a bakery, everything is made in-house, including the samosa of The Samosa Factory, which is aspiring to become the magnum opus of Hafiz.

Lahore is known for its street food and Punjabi delicacies. However, as far as the restaurant circuit is concerned, there has been a lull as far as great food is concerned. Lots of new eateries hit the market in 2013 and they are doing fair business, but did they hit the spot? One can’t say. Here is a roundup of what we think were the must try items of the year.

Udon House

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Korean food to local Lahoris was an alien concept until Udon House opened its doors to Lahore. For those who enjoy Korean food, this came as a sanctuary and those who had never tried it, were introduced to something new. Authentic Korean BBQ stir fry with lots of kimchi really hits the spot. The must try item on the menu has to be the Beef Bulgogi, tender chunks of beef stir fried with shallots and served up with jasmine rice with a side of kimchi and pickled cucumbers.

Polo Lounge

Polo Lounge has always had its niche market, but this year they really picked up their game with Chef Shahnawaz joining their team from New York. Not only did he revamp the menu, but also worked closely at designing a brunch menu that took the city by storm. Sunday Brunch at Polo Lounge became the ‘it’ thing to do in Lahore. A wide assortment of brunch goodies, including eggs Benedict, pancakes, waffles and customised omelettes by Chef Shahnawaz, roped in throngs of people wanting seconds.

Fujiyama

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When it comes to evergreen restaurants, Fujiyama has to be one of them. People, however, generally go and order the exact same things, Crunchy Maki, prawn tempura, chicken teppeniyaki and garlic rice. What we suggest you try is the Crab stick tempura and hot and spicy crab. The crab stick tempura quite literally melts in your mouth and, with the tempura sauce, it adds a different flavor to the regular prawn tempura. Hot and spicy chicken is one of the best sellers, but one must try the hot and spicy crab. Stir fried crab meat in traditional spicy sauce gives the meat a different flavor, and you enjoy a different texture too.

 Jalal Sons

EVERYTHING! Yes we know it is not a restaurant, but this bakery is definitely doing something right, because no matter what they produce, it’s delicious. From salad to samosas to their take on the Zinger burger and pizzas. Not only will Jalal Sons brighten up your tea trolley, but will also be great for dinner and lunch.

Rice Bowl

Chinese food has always been all the rage when it comes to Pakistanis. The funny thing is that at some point in time, you have tried each and every one of them. While lots of new Chinese restaurants opened up, including China Town and Palillios, one place really made a mark and that has to be Rice Bowl. The must try item will have to be the Sweet n Sour Crispy Chicken. Deep fried chunks of chicken come with a harmony of sweet and sour sauce with vegetables on the side. Along with some egg fried rice, this dish is fantastic. It has the kick of the sauce and the crunch of the chicken.

Published in The Express Tribune, December 30th, 2013.

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